Sri Lanka’s compact capital has a multitude of delights — whatever your budget — from buzzy cocktail bars to hidden art galleries, says local Lydia Swinscoe
For the longest time, Colombo was swerved by holidaymakers flying into Sri Lanka for their two-week jaunt. Cast off as a waste of time, a frenetic city, with not much to see or do, a place only to be visited for a visa extension or to remedy a missing passport.
Even today, I still meet travellers who have opted for nearby tourist-filled Negombo over the enigmatic capital and scroll through Reel after Reel from content creators happily sharing why it’s better to swerve the capital, even though they’ve never visited.
And having lived in Colombo for over six months, I couldn’t disagree more.
Its diminutive size ensures it’s walkable (as long as you don’t mind the heat), with wide boulevards flanked by impressive towering trees anchored by roots so strong they upend pavements. It’s brims with creativity, filled with fun-loving residents, and teeming with excitement. And while it may seem chaotic and traffic-choked on the surface, with a little patience, you’ll be able to seek out its quirks and realise it’s the ideal place for a solo traveller to linger.
Here’s how to make the most of Colombo, whatever your budget.
Kick off with culture
There are too many intriguing galleries, art spaces, museums and exhibitions to mention, all of which champion creative Sri Lankan stalwarts as well as up-and-coming pioneers, highlighting issues such as climate change and current narratives shaping the country. For a sweeping overview that takes in the ancient and the contemporary, don’t miss these local-loved spots.
At around £4 (1,500 Sri Lankan Rupees) to enter, Colombo National Museum isn’t really a splurge, but it is one of the only museums in Colombo that charges an entry fee. Of course, it’s totally worth it to help preserve its contents and stand amongst relics from some of the country’s most treasured ancient sites, as well as stone statuettes of lesser-known gods and goddesses like Jyestha holding a conch and flowers. There’s enough to keep visitors occupied for at least half a day, and more if you adore learning about Sri Lanka’s layered past.
For something mid-range, head to Sapumal Foundation which is hidden in a garden at the bottom of a small track in the city’s upscale neighbourhood, Colombo 7. It showcases an array of Sri Lankan legends, from Tilak Samarwickrema, who houses guests in his nearby home studio on Airbnb and Beavis Bawa, brother of the godfather of tropical modernism architecture, to Harry Pieris, whose moody oils can be seen without the distracting crowds found at comparable art spaces in other capitals. Entry is free, but donations are appreciated. Give generously if you can.
On a budget? Open to all with free entry, Studio Kayamai serves as a platform for emerging creatives to express their ideas and emotions through powerful artistic activism. Founded by Aadhitya Jayaseelan, whose clothing designs are truly remarkable, the studio also plays an important role in nurturing community spirit in the city. It’s a must-visit for anyone exploring Colombo’s cultural scene.
Shop Sri Lankan-made mementos
Colombo is home to an array of brilliant stores, shops and craft spaces where picking up a souvenir or two will surely steal a couple of hours. Some of my favourite designers include Aadhitya Jayaseelan, whose wearable pieces of art include bold designs adorning dresses, shirts and tunics, and Amesh Wijesekera’s candy coloured hand stitched knitwear — be sure to look out for them at PR on Horton Place.
I’m not one for bling-worthy jewellery, but when I spotted a dreamy sapphire ring on one of my friend’s fingers over dinner, I was dazzled. Turns out it was from Bullion Exchange Jewellers, a huge store dedicated to top-class gems, including the famed Sri Lankan sapphires loved across the globe — the engagement ring given to the then Princess Diana, now worn by Princess Kate, is a Ceylon sapphire.
But they don’t only come in pretty blue hues, there’s also an incredibly stunning sunset shade range of sapphires, known as padparadschas, that are pretty rare and are only found in Sri Lanka, Madagascar and Tanzania — and this is the place to snap one up.
For something more mid-range, head to The Design Collective Store: Brought to life by Shahili Gomes-McCoy and Binu Wickramasinghe as a place to share their love of fashion, design, art, and travel, The Design Collective Store houses an impressive curation of clothing, accessories and jewellery. It’s situated on one of my favourite streets in Colombo, where you’ll also find a great essential oil shop, Oh My Cake!, a brilliant little cafe that whips up inventive homemade cakes, and Noeline’s, a sound choice for a manicure.
On a budget? You can’t go wrong with a meander through Barefoot Gallery and Cafe — not only is it a Colombo institution, it’s the place to pick up handloom sarongs, coffee table books by brilliant Sri Lankan authors and homewares.
Grab a rice and curry lunch
Rice and curry is the mainstay of Sri Lankan cuisine, and when I say rice and curry, I mean a mound of rice (either red or white) surrounded or topped with an array of four or five types of curry, and sprinkled with dried salted chilies that crumble pleasingly between the fingers, and a poppadom or two. There are hundreds upon hundreds of cafes, stalls, shops and roadside stands serving rice and curry lunch packs across the city, so it’s tricky hunting out the best, but I’ve given it my best shot.
Undoubtedly, the best rice and curry I’ve had has been at friends’ homes when I’ve been invited back for an amazing feast, but when that’s not possible, these are my go-tos. And eating with your hands is the way to go…
One of Colombo’s best-kept secret sunset spots, Headquarters by W15 has an eclectic menu with many must-tries, including great bar bites as well as an upscale rice and curry. They also utilise Sri Lankan spirits, spices and fruits in their creative range of cocktails and mocktails, all of which can be enjoyed alongside a fabulous view of the city’s Lotus Tower.
For something more affordable, I recommend Ranbath Organic. A woman I met at a food market first told me about it, so I checked it out not long after and was not disappointed. Delicately spiced curries are served with local rice on lotus leaves alongside coconut husk cutlery. The menu changes daily and it’s a pick and mix affair, so you can try a bit of everything if you wish.
On a budget? My all-time favourite cheap rice and curry spot has just changed locations, from behind a huge tree on Thimbirigasyaya Road, closer to the junction and just before Aśōkārāma Temple in Colombo 5. Previously known as Lunu Ambula, its new name is Salt and Sour, but the lunch packs, each wrapped in banana leaves, remain as good as ever. Offering rice and curry, fried rice, lamprais and yellow rice, opt for chicken, fish, prawns, sprats, or egg as an extra topping. It also comes with pol sambol (the most amazing grated coconut, lime and chili concoction that’s seriously addictive), from £1.
Pause for a sugar rush
When the heat of the day hits, nothing revives you like a sweet treat and a cup of milk tea, a true Sri Lankan staple.
Tea enthusiasts will adore the vibrant t-Lounge by Dilmah. Decorated with vivid elephant murals and offering an impressive array of renowned Sri Lankan teas, its Watte series is exceptional with its rich, full-bodied flavours. Or for a refreshing choice, try the Uda Watte, cultivated at an altitude of around 1,220 meters. It’s served in a glass brewing flask accompanied by a timer to ensure the perfect infusion. There are three branches to choose from, my favourite is the store on Horton Place.
Paan Paan is a small Sri Lankan chain store sells good bread, pastries and delightful cakes. I usually head there most afternoons for a milk tea and occasionally, a chocolate eclair or profiterole (freshly baked each day, you can buy one at a time and they’re divine – choose from coffee or chocolate filled).
Milk tea, typically made with tea leaves, powdered milk, and a mountain of sugar to rival Adam’s Peak, can be found on pretty much every street corner. To live like a true Lankan, it’s a ritual not to be missed. Look out for roadside stalls with people milling around or any of the simple cafes dotted throughout the city, expect to pay around 80 to 150 rupees (roughly 40p or less).
And if the mountain-sized dose of sugar found in the milk tea isn’t enough to satisfy a sweet tooth, some of the best baked goods can be found in the back of the country’s mobile bakery tuk tuks, which signal their presence by playing a cute version of Beethoven’s Für Elise. In Colombo, they’re usually found around the more residential neighbourhoods, perhaps trundling their well-worn routes each morning and again at around 4pm. Don’t miss the chocolate-topped doughnuts if you happen to see one; they’re some of the best around.
Finish the day with cocktails and bites
Colombo’s cocktail scene is thriving with new hip bars seemingly cropping up overnight and many of them serve incredible food too. For a bar bite that impresses, look out for Hot Butter Cuttlefish — this distinctly Sri Lankan-Chinese dish is loved across the island and rightly so.
I adore so many restaurants and bars across the city, but if I had to narrow it down, these three picks cater well to solo diners with bar seating, exquisite sips and supremely moreish bites.
I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve written about gorgeous GINI because it really is that good. Since opening in Colombo in August 2023, GINI has quickly become a local favourite with its unpretentious and romantic feel.
The setting feels as though you’re dining in a friend’s garden, and the menu showcases bold, inventive takes on Sri Lankan fare. Think char-grilled prawns in Jaffna curry, a brilliant prawn sausage (trust me on this one), and oysters in a herbed coconut cream. Cocktails are expertly crafted; try the local gin, Campari, grape, and lemon for a nostalgic kick, or the arrack, lime, and kithul mix for a punchy kick.
Shoulders By Harpos is a stylish, Greek-inspired bar and restaurant in Colombo, serving locally sourced produce with signature dishes like 12-hour slow-roasted Sri Lankan lamb with arrack jaggery sauce and a rich minced beef moussaka.
The cocktail menu is among the city’s most inventive, crafted entirely by Indian mixologist Samarth Thapa, who was handpicked by owner and local legend Harpo Gooneratne after a chance meeting in a Bangalore speakeasy. Together, along with Gooneratne’s daughter Ash, they’ve created one of Colombo’s most exciting dining and drinking destinations.
If you don’t want to splurge, swing by Uncle’s, a fun-loving bar that spills out onto trendy Park Street Mews and is packed out every Friday night. Celebrating Sri Lankan flavours like cinnamon, pandan, and cardamom in standout cocktails like my fave, Rampe, a pale green creation that reminds me of a Bakewell Pudding. They also have toddy on tap and serve a selection of bites based on street food classics. With hand-painted vintage murals and character-named drinks, the bar is a bold, flavour-packed homage to Colombo’s glorious spirit.
Bed down in style
New hotels are popping up in abundance in the colourful capital, from the ocean front Amari Colombo, to the over-hyped Cinnamon Life that was 10 years in the making. Having stayed in nearly all of Colombo’s hotels and many of the city’s Airbnbs and homestays, these are the ones worth checking in to.
Set within a colonial-era home passed down through generations, the serene and secluded Maniumpathy retreat in the prestigious Cinnamon Gardens neighbourhood offers the warmth of a home with second-to-none service. With eight uniquely styled bedrooms, each impeccably crafted and adorned with rich dark-wood antiques, luxurious deep-soak bathtubs, and charming floral fabrics, it really is hard to leave this sumptuous abode that’s one of the best hotels in Sri Lanka.
A true hidden gem set in a paradisical green space that rivals the Garden of Eden, home away from home ISHQ and its lovely team (including Ashan, who seamlessly takes care of every detail) truly is worth the splurge. It boasts four decadently furnished bedrooms adorned with rare collectibles and contemporary Sri Lankan art, while an inviting plunge pool begs to be lingered in. What’s more, the food offering is out of this world, rivalling some of the best restaurants in Colombo.
Meanwhile, if you’re on a tight budget, The Hollow is a compact, artfully designed studio ideal for solo travellers. Thoughtful touches, like hand-painted murals, bespoke furniture, and a French press with Sri Lankan coffee, create a serene, creative space.
Owned by local designer Manthika, it’s not only secure and stylish but is also close to some of the city’s top restaurants.
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